Should You Buy a Used Guitar That Needs a Refret?

Short answer: yes, often — as long as the price reflects it. A refret is one of the few "problems" on a used guitar that I actually don't mind, because it's a known, fixable, one-time cost. It's not a hairline crack you'll worry about forever. It's a line item. The trouble is that most buyers either panic at the word "refret" and walk away from a great deal, or they ignore worn frets entirely and get surprised by a bill later. Both cost you money. Here's how I think about it after having a lot of these instruments across the bench.

First: is it actually a refret, or just a level?

This is the question that decides everything, and most listings get it wrong. Frets don't wear out all at once. A fret starts life as a tall, rounded crown. Playing flattens the top and eventually digs little divots where the strings sit. As long as there's enough height left, a tech can level the tops flat, re-round (crown) them, and polish — that's a fret dress, and it's a fraction of the cost of a refret. A neck can usually take a couple of light levels over its life before it runs out of room.

You only truly need a refret when the frets are worn so low that leveling them would leave them too short to play cleanly, or when the divots are deep enough that flattening past them removes most of what's left. The rule of thumb I use: once wear reaches roughly the halfway point of the fret's height, you're into refret territory. Below that, a good dress usually buys you years. So before you treat a guitar as a "refret guitar," figure out whether it really is one — a lot of "worn frets" listings just need an $80–$150 dress and a setup.

What a refret actually costs in 2026

A straightforward refret on an unbound rosewood or ebony board — standard nickel-silver wire, including a level, crown, and fresh setup — typically lands somewhere around $250 to $500 depending on your region and the shop's reputation. Busy, well-known shops sit at the top of that range and beyond. Then there are the things that add labor:

• Bound fingerboard (most Gibson Les Pauls, ES models, nicer PRS): the binding has to be dealt with at the fret ends, usually adding roughly $50–$100.
• Maple fretboard (a lot of Fenders): pulling frets can require refinishing the board, which adds cost. Worth noting there's real debate here — plenty of luthiers say maple often doesn't chip badly and doesn't strictly need refinishing, so ask your tech rather than assuming the worst.
• Stainless steel wire: more on that below, but budget an extra $60–$150 on top of the base price.

So the realistic all-in number for most used electrics is a few hundred dollars. Write that number down, because it's the whole key to the buying decision.

The buyer's math: when a refret guitar is a steal

Here's where it gets interesting. Sellers tend to discount a needs-a-refret guitar far more than the refret actually costs, because "needs work" scares people. That gap is your opportunity.

Say a clean example of a given model sells for around $1,500. You find one with worn frets listed at $1,050 because the seller wants a quick, no-drama sale. A quality refret runs you, say, $350. You're all-in at $1,400 for a guitar that now has fresh frets — better than the $1,500 "clean" one that's still on its original, half-worn wire. In that scenario the refret isn't a cost, it's leverage. I've bought guitars specifically because they needed frets and the price had overcorrected.

It becomes a trap when the discount doesn't cover the work, or when the frets are the tip of the iceberg. A guitar with frets worn to nothing has usually been played hard, so look at everything else — the nut, the truss rod's remaining range, the electronics, the neck angle. If the seller wants near-clean money and you still owe a shop $350 on top, walk. The refret only makes sense when the price already bakes it in.

What a fresh refret does not fix

Don't let new frets paper over other issues. A refret restores the playing surface. It does not fix a warped neck that's out of truss-rod adjustment, a bad neck angle, a cracked headstock, or tired pots and switches. Those are separate jobs with separate bills. A good tech will true the fretboard as part of a refret, which can improve a slightly problematic neck — but it is not a cure for a structurally compromised one. Judge the neck and the electronics on their own before you get excited about the fret job.

Stainless steel: pay once, cry once

If you're already paying for a refret, seriously consider stainless steel wire. It costs more up front and not every tech loves working with it — it's harder on tools and takes longer to dress — but it lasts dramatically longer than traditional nickel-silver. For a heavy player, a stainless refret can be close to the last one the guitar ever needs. If you flip guitars often or care about vintage originality, stick with nickel-silver. If this is a keeper you actually play, stainless is the one upgrade I rarely regret recommending.

One caveat for the collectors: on a genuinely vintage or collectible instrument, any refret — and especially a stainless one — can affect originality and resale to purists. On a player-grade used guitar, nobody cares, and fresh frets only help. Match the choice to what the guitar is.

How I check fret life before buying

When I'm sizing up a used guitar, I look straight down the frets under good light. I'm checking the frets that get hammered — usually the first few, and around the 5th to 9th — for flat spots and divots where the strings bite in. Slight flattening is normal and dresses out easily. Deep grooves you can feel with a fingernail, or frets that already look low next to their neighbors, mean a refret is coming. If you're buying online, ask for a straight-down, well-lit photo of the fretboard and a clear shot of the most-played frets. A seller who won't send that is telling you something.

Bottom line: never let "needs a refret" scare you off by itself. Price the work, make sure the discount more than covers it, confirm the rest of the guitar is sound, and a refret guitar can be the smartest buy on the wall. You can see what's currently on the bench and ready to play in our in-stock guitars.

FAQ

How do I know if a guitar needs a refret or just a fret level?

If the frets still have most of their height and only show light flattening, a level and crown will restore them. If wear passes roughly the halfway point of the fret, or there are deep divots under the strings, it needs a refret. When in doubt, a tech can tell you in about five minutes.

Does a refret hurt a guitar's value?

On a player-grade used instrument, a quality refret is neutral to positive — fresh frets are a selling point. On a genuinely vintage or collectible guitar, a refret (and especially non-original stainless wire) can matter to purists and soften resale. Match the wire and the decision to what the guitar actually is.

Is it worth paying extra for stainless steel frets during a refret?

For a guitar you plan to keep and play hard, usually yes — they last far longer and can be close to the last refret the guitar needs. For frequent flippers or vintage pieces where originality matters, stick with traditional nickel-silver.